Its difficult to explain the power of an idea. It dwells in our consciousness; sometimes relegated, sometimes ignored, but never forgotten. Ever present in the back of our minds, dominating our thoughts whenever we we have a moment to day dream.
I first saw a photo of Mount Ololokwe about 12 years ago and my imagination was instantly captured by this massive mountain emerging seemingly out of nowhere from the desert plains. In many of my travels such as during my elephant encounter in Samburu, and a most relaxing trip to Sera Conservancy among many more, she seemed to continually taunt me and was a constant reminder of the promise I once made to myself.
I had to spend a night atop this mountain.
Background Information
Mount Ololokwe (known as Ol Donyo Sabache) is located on Namunyak Conservancy in Samburu East. Namunyak was formed in 1995 and today it consists of 6 group ranches covering an area of 394,000 hectares with a population of approximately 13,000 people. The mountain rises out of the Samburu plains and is around 2000 ASL at its highest point.
Getting there
This mountain is one of the easiest to access in Northern Kenya. It is only 1 1/2 hrs from Nanyuki, the same from Meru and only 45min from Isiolo Town.
The A2 passes just below the mountain so its easy to get to the mountain using public transport. No 4WD required, cars, motorcycles even a bicycle will get you there. However I recommend a night at either Nanyuki or Isiolo for a very early start otherwise you’ll be making your climb in heat like you’ve never known before.
On Arrival
Surprise, surprise, on arrival at the junction of the Archers Post – Baragoi Road where we were to meet our guide there was no sign of him. After 2hrs of driving up and down and been bounced around by the Namunyak management, it turns out our guide was already on the mountain with other guests! So no guide, none of the donkeys we had organized, no nothing. Now what?
We were finally directed to Sabache Camp, located at the foot of the mountain, where we were finally able to rustle up 5 porters and an armed guide to take us up the mountain. Due to the lack of donkeys we had to jettison alot of the stuff we had carried and repack everything. In hindsight we probably should have given more importance to such frivolous items such as food, water and shelter.
The Climb
As this is a route not often used our climb started with having to clear some bush from the path up. Right at this point, Okei the guide warned us not to sit down on a particular rock as there was a massive snake under it, what a start.
Its a long, steep very twisty climb. Most of the trails up the mountain are old elephant trails and are also used by cattle driven up towards the permanent springs at the top. The porters irritatingly don’t feel it, they bounced on ahead with all our luggage chatting away. About 2 hours of a hard hot climb (for me anyway) we began to get glimpses of what we were working towards.
I’m finding the climb difficult. Due to the delay in in getting ourselves organized after the letdown we are climbing during high noon (thanks Namunyak!). Luckily except for a few clearings like the one above alot of the climb up is bushy and as such affords some shade. We make numerous stops for rest and water. After about 3hrs of we finally make it to the top of the mountain. But its not over yet, we need to walk about another 30min along the plateau to the campsite. The plateau is really large at the top, with forests and grassy plains leading to large granite slabs at the edges.
The Campsite
Aaaand we’ve made it. The campsite we used was located just at the cliffs edge of the mountain. These photos do the view no justice, looking out over Sera and Kalama conservancies and on a clear day as far as the Merti Plateau.
The entire afternoon we are treated to a dance of rain showers passing the plains below.
A different view of the campsite. As you can see there is a shaded area right behind the tents. There is another camping spot about 200m behind this one higher up on the cliff edge but I didn’t take the time to visit it.
It should be noted that there are no facilities at on the mountain. You must carry all your food, water and shelter. If possible toilets should be dug and covered.
The famous cat and mouse rock formation of Samburu, known to the locals as Nkadoru Murto . Maybe worth a visit another time?
Telecommunication masts below us, there are engineers who live here on a rotational basis. Definitely not the worst office to wake up to.
As evening falls natures beautiful display continues. Almost time for dinner, it is at this point we realize someone (N) has brought the wrong gas bottle- stove combination. What joy.
The First Evening.
The first drops of rain start to fall at 7pm. In ten minutes the it is a fully fledged storm, thunder and lightning threaten to crack open the sky. I first notice my tent floor begin to leak at at 730pm. By 8pm water is practically gushing in through the floor. Over the noise of the torrential rain I don’t know how my travel mates or the guide are. Shouting is impossible. At one point I honestly believe I will be struck by lightning, the flashes light up the inside of my tent and are are only 5min apart. I am drenched through, same with my mattress and sleeping bag, I have to build up an ‘island’ in my tent so as not to lie in water. This is when I realize that I cant find half my food. I have a dinner of some biscuits and juice. I cant sleep, I’m too cold……..
End of Part 1, click here for Part 2.
And it ends just as it gets interesting 🙂 Reminds me of my night at Suswa with a water logged tent, at least I had the car to run back to
Hi Arthur, there it was me and my God, and he sounded extremely ticked off! Funny, one New Years I also got rained on in Suswa as well…
Arthur. You have never pointed me to this site becaaaaaause?!
Oops. Thought everyone knew of this site, pole. Go through it and get jealous lol
Oh my goodness…I cant believe this is what you get up to when you say you’re off for the weekend. This is my favorite yet . That night sounds like my idea of hell!!!! Looking forward to part deux
On that night I think I might have discovered whatever level is under hell! Its really hard to describe in words…. misery just doesn’t do it justice.
Reblogged this on funtravelkenya's Blog.
You just killed me with that suspense, now I have to wait. Awesome place, awesome site, awesome storytelling…now part 2 please. Hehe
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Reblogged this on whirlwindadventures and commented:
Whirlwind Adventures takes a similar trip this Easter to Sacred Ololokwe from only Kshs. 15, 000 for 4 days and 3 nights all inclusive! Call us today on + 254 722 153 753
i climbed on that mountain when i was 11 years old it was so lovely and adventurious!!!!!
Thats too long ago, you should do it again.
I love this mountain. Good blog.
Thanks Claire, keep reading and I’ll keep writing.
Pingback: Camping On Mount Ololokwe – 12 Years A Slave (Part 2) | The Kenyan Camper
Love this post – and THE PHOTOS. Bravo, sir!
Thank you, your readership and feedback is always much appreciated.
Best blog yet. And as the N of the trip I can safely say that even without cooking gas it’s the most incredible place and that those views are up there with the best in Kenya (and best seen with eyes rather than am iPhone). Cheers Kenyan Camper.
Just wouldn’t have been the same without you mate, I’m glad we finally got it together. Will be a fond memory for a long time to come.
Lemme read part two…i would love to go there but am scared of heights…#sobssibs
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I can’t wait to hike Mt. Ololokwe!
Hi What town is Mt. Ololokwe in?
It’s not in any town.
ok…. 🙂 I meant what specific location ?
wow! this is my type of adventure.the whole read was an inspiration to me. just gave me an idea of my next safari. heading to Ololokwe!!!
Glad to hear you were inspired, it is a stunning mountain and even with the tough climb it’s extremely worth it. Send me an email after you visit, would love to hear about your experience.
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Hi. You mentioned its possible to get there on public transport. How would one get to the camp from Nairobi with Public transport? I could catch a matatu to Isiolo but how would i get to Sabache?
Thanks
Hi Rishi, I think Isiolo would be your best launching pad. You should be able to easily get a matatu/boda boda to Archers then a boda boda should be able to take you right to the camp. Some of these things are easily figured out once you’re on the ground. Best of luck – let me know how it goes.
Thank you!
Thank you!